Difference between revisions of "Power Supply"
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== Related links == | == Related links == | ||
+ | * [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBoF1e5YDdQ Eevblog takes a look inside the replacement coord as well as the power supply itself] | ||
* [http://brandonw.net/consoles/xbox/ Describes how to turn an ATX Power-Supply to Xbox PSU] | * [http://brandonw.net/consoles/xbox/ Describes how to turn an ATX Power-Supply to Xbox PSU] | ||
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20060421203325/https://msmvps.com/blogs/matthewsoft/archive/2005/02/17/36238.aspx Powercord recall blog with exacter cable numbers] | * [https://web.archive.org/web/20060421203325/https://msmvps.com/blogs/matthewsoft/archive/2005/02/17/36238.aspx Powercord recall blog with exacter cable numbers] |
Revision as of 14:10, 3 October 2019
It's either a Foxlink[citation needed] or Delta Electronics power supply for most xboxes. Some are rumored to be shipped with a Minebea brand and 1.6 xboxes are found with a "tuscany" made probably by Samsung.
On a 1.0 xbox supply, there seems to be 2[citation needed] types for the US 120V and EU 240V market.
The standby voltage powers the SMC which handles turning on and off the system. The Xbox supply needs a voltage (3V3?) on it's power-on line to leave the standby mode. This results in the other voltages being supplied.
Contents
Delta Electronics
The marks are on the PCB with a check next to them:
- Delta Electronics DPSN-96-AP-1 should be the EU 240V one[citation needed]
- Delta Electronics DPSN-96-AP is the US 120V one
There is a link J11 under CR1 (right side of the coil under it) that might make the difference between 120V and 240V. It also seems that the Bridge rectifier is bigger on the US models. This could make sense as it has to handle double the current. So, before experimenting with this it might be worth to check if the installed type can handle 2.3 amps.
The rated output currents are also noted on the PCB
Power Rail | Rated Current |
3.3V Standby | 0.075A |
3.3V | 4.8A |
5V | 13.2A |
12V | 1.2A |
Foxlink Technology LTD
[FIXME]On the lower heatsink, there is a sticker with the following markings and versions:
- MODEL: FTPS-0001 REV:B [citation needed] (120V)
- MODEL: FTPS-0002 REV:B (from a 2002 PAL (240V))
- MODEL: FTPS-0002 REV:H (from a 2003 PAL (240V))
- MODEL: FTPS-0002 REV:G [citation needed] (240V)
- MODEL: FTPS-0007 REV:B [citation needed] (120V) (are these after the powercord recall?)
- MODEL: FTPS-0007 REV:D [citation needed] (120V) (are these after the powercord recall?)
The rated output currents are also noted on the sticker
96W Max output power
Power Rail | Rated Current |
3.3V Standby | 0.045A |
3.3V | 4.8A |
5V | 13.2A |
12V | 1.2A |
Powercord recall
Microsoft started an powercord recall, or more like a replacement program xbox.comfor what appeared to be Foxlink powersupplies having a bad powerplug connector on the back of the console and where installed in 1.0 and 1.1 Xboxes.[citation needed]. Microsoft tried to resolve this by offering free replacement powercords and advising to trow out the old ones. More to the power cord replacement than meets the eye?[FIXME].
From the Microsoft powercord replacement FAQ:
- Does my console require a replacement cord?
- If it was manufactured before October 23, 2003, your console requires a replacement cord (except for consoles purchased in Continental Europe, where consoles manufactured prior to January 13, 2004 require a replacement cord). Consoles manufactured after October 23, 2003 (after January 13, 2004 for consoles purchased in Continental Europe) do not require replacement cords because design improvements to the cord and console already protect against the problems that are addressed by the replacement cords.[1]
The old page describing how to order has been archived here: [2] One would either receive a thicker but very similar powercord or an actual GFI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). a online form would then be used to determine which type of cable you receive by means of serial number. [FIXME]
AFCI
A video of whats inside an european (UK) "AFCI" [3]
An european AFCI ordered from MS for free had the following on the bottom label.
Part number | X800925-100 |
200-240V~,50/60HZ, 610mA | |
MFG Code | DN0855 |
The cable that is wired to the AFCI has the following markings:
top | bottom |
---|---|
JI-HAW | JHT-031 |
Old and New cords
The replacement cable has the following markings:[citation needed]
top | bottom |
---|---|
JHT-031 | [citation needed] |
The older cable that needed replacement was:
top | bottom |
---|---|
NITTO SS | W41-27854 |
JHT-013 | N15905 |
JI-HAW | |
E147422 |
Presumably this one doesn't come with tighter tolerances.
Samsung "TUSCANY"
Found in 1.6 xboxes and seems to be made by Samsung (or atleast the main transformer is, which also has the detail label on it) [FIXME]
- PSCD101301A
Minebea
[FIXME]
- MS001A096EMJ
Minebea Electronics UK LTD | (circuit board) |
---|---|
DWG No. | 1 R26PA-SE300393 REV: E |
PART No. | 1 1612100002 |
0234-3 | |
Sticker: | |
NMB Technologies Corp | Power Supply Division |
Made in | Thailand |
Model: | MS001A096EMJ |
REV: | 08 |
AC INPUT:100-120V | 2A 47-63Hz |
Connector pinout
Xbox 1.0 and 1.1
The power supply connector for 1.0 and 1.1 is a single column of pins described by the following chart. Pin 1 is the connector pin closest to the back of the Xbox.
Pin | Usage |
---|---|
Pin 1 | PowOK |
Pin 2 | PowON |
Pin 3 | GND |
Pin 4 | GND |
Pin 5 | GND |
Pin 6 | GND |
Pin 7 | +3.3V Standby |
Pin 8 | +3.3V |
Pin 9 | +5V |
Pin 10 | +5V |
Pin 11 | +5V |
Pin 12 | +12V |
Xbox 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5
The power supply connector for the 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 xboxes is two columns. Pin 1, Column 1 being the top left pin. Pin 1, Column 2 being the top right pin. The top being the side closest to the back of the Xbox.
Pin Column 1 | Usage | Pin Column 2 | Usage |
---|---|---|---|
Pin 1 | PowOK | Pin 1 | PowON |
Pin 2 | GND | Pin 2 | GND |
Pin 3 | None | Pin 3 | +3.3V |
Pin 4 | +3.3V | Pin 4 | None |
Pin 5 | None | Pin 5 | GND |
Pin 6 | GND | Pin 6 | +3.3V Standby |
Pin 7 | None | Pin 7 | GND |
Pin 8 | +5V | Pin 8 | +5V |
Pin 9 | +5V | Pin 9 | None |
Pin 10 | +5V | Pin 10 | +12V |
Xbox 1.6
The connector for the 1.6 Xbox is two columns. Pin 1, Column 1 being the top left pin. Pin 1, Column 2 being the top right pin. The top being the side closest to the back of the Xbox. This is the same connector as a 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 xboxes, with a different pinout.
Pin Column 1 | Usage | Pin Column 2 | Usage |
---|---|---|---|
Pin 1 | PowOK (3.3V Standby) | Pin 1 | PowON (3.3V) |
Pin 2 | GND | Pin 2 | GND |
Pin 3 | None | Pin 3 | None |
Pin 4 | None | Pin 4 | None |
Pin 5 | GND | Pin 5 | GND |
Pin 6 | GND | Pin 6 | +5V (0.12V Standby) |
Pin 7 | GND | Pin 7 | GND |
Pin 8 | +5V Standby | Pin 8 | +5V Standby |
Pin 9 | +5V Standby | Pin 9 | GND |
Pin 10 | +5V Standby | Pin 10 | +12V (0.532V Standby) |
Real world power usage
DC amperage as measured on with a Fluke 376 clamp meter around the PSU to Motherboard connections. HDD not included in measurements and the DVD drive and controller rumble were not used. AC wattage measured at 120v 60Hz using a 'KILL A WATT' meter includes all system components but DVD drive and controller rumble were not used.
XBOX V1.0 | Power off | Unleash X | Halo 2 Menu | DolphinClassic | Maximum Observed |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
GND | 0A | 5.9A | 5.8A | 6.0A | 6.2A |
3.3v Standby | 0.2A | 0.3A | 0.3A | 0.3A | 0.3A |
3.3v | 0A | 2.5A | 2.2A | 2.7A | 2.7A |
5v | 0A | 7.1A | 7.2A | 7.0A | 7.2A |
12v | 0A | 0.3A | 0.4A | 0.4A | 0.4A |
~120VAC | 2.1W | 67.4W | 65.3W | 68.5W | 68.5W |
XBOX V1.3 | Power off | Unleash X | Halo 2 Menu | DolphinClassic | Maximum Observed |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
GND | 0A | 8.5A | 8.1A | 8.6A | 8.6A |
3.3v Standby | 0.4A | 0.5A | 0.5A | 0.5A | 0.5A |
3.3v | 0A | 3.7A | 2.9A | 3.7A | 3.7A |
5v | 0A | 6.4A | 6.7A | 6.5A | 6.7A |
12v | 0A | 0.2A | 0.3A | 0.2A | 0.3A |
~120VAC | 1.2W | 64.6W | 62.2W | 64.3W | 64.6W |
TODO: Measure other hardware revisions and more usage scenarios.